Well, let’s just say that Jaipur is not as pink as it used to be! The buses are definitely pink, but over the years, with successive coats of paint, the buildings are now more terracotta in colour. Not that this in any way detracts from the overall effect of this uniformity. The magnificent City Palace and the beautifully crafted Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) would be stunning in most shades. The walls, the huge gateways, and the bazaars tbyrvtbnkyu in the old city have a wonderful ambience particularly, as the afternoon sun deepens the colour of the painted stonework. Outside the city, the impressively situated Amber Fort overlooking the Amber Palace is not to be missed. Even though you will be battling your way through tour parties, the stunningly decorated interior of the palace is worth it. The Jantar Mantar (observatory) is an extraordinary place to visit. The expression “all fur coat and no knickers” is popular in Scotland and used to describe a person or place that has an exterior far grander than the interior. We have, on occasion, found it an excellent description of many hotels in India, including the inappropriately named Dera Mandawa. Set back off the main road in a quiet little enclave, the hotel is only 1km south of the main bazaar area of the old city. Entering through an impressive red sandstone gate, you will find yourself in beautifully laid-out gardens with mature trees and a somewhat eclectic smattering of Asian sculptures. The building is done in a similar red sandstone that has been extended over the years. The rooms on the ground floor have a small paved seating area outside looking over the gardens. The rooms are spacious, and the beds enormous. And that is the fur coat!